Iris unguicularis

The fabulous lime green bracts of Helleborus orientalis

Camelia

Winter stems of Cornus ‘Midwinter Fire’

Unusual purple berries of Callicarpa bodinieri

• Prune winter flowering shrubs that have finished flowering such as Sarcoccoca.

• You can also prune many deciduous summer flowering shrubs at this time of year as they flower on the current years growth. These include Buddleja, which can be cut heavily to almost the ground. Don’t be scared to do this. They will look all the better for the attention, producing lush new growth and flowers at a height you can enjoy. Other shrubs that will benefit from pruning now are Leycesteria, hardy Fuchsia, Perovskia and Ceratostigma

• Shrubs grown for their colourful winter stems such as Cornus and Salix should have about a third of their oldest stems removed annually. Cut right back to the base or main framework. This prevents the plant from getting too tall, and encourages the re-growth of those beautiful stems.

• Prune hardy evergreen hedges such as cherry laurels, yews and conifers. Deciduous hedges such as beech and hornbeam, and native hedges can also be cut back before growth begins.

• Prune Wisteria and Campsis back to two or three buds.

• Cut back summer flowering clematis (group 3) such as the viticella, to the lowest pair of buds, feed them with a slow release fertiliser, and give them a thick mulch.

• Feed and mulch after pruning.

• This is a good time to plant trees, shrubs, bare rooted hedges and roses and to move any deciduous trees and shrubs. However, this should not be carried out if the ground is water-logged or frozen.

Perennials

• Cut back all herbaceous perennials, including grasses that have been left for winter interest. It is important that this is carried out before new growth begins in spring.

• Remove all dead and damaged leaves of evergreen perennials such as Bergenia.

• Feed all perennials with a slow release fertilizer such as fish, blood and bone.

Grasses

• Cut back all deciduous grasses which were left for interest throughout the winter months such as Miscanthus, Calamagrostis and Pannicum.

• Feed with a slow release fertilizer.

I took these photos whilst out walking in Capel Manor Gardens in Enfield last week-end.

Acer ‘Ozakazuki’

Gardeners who prefer pristine gardens would see self-seeding plants as unwelcome guests or weeds. Others, myself included, welcome them into our gardens as they create a more naturalistic look. Nature has a way of placing plants in just the right spot, enhancing even the most skillfully designed planting scheme.

If too many seedlings are competing with each other, it is a simple task to dig them up and place them elsewhere in the garden. This is an extremely economic way of producing new plants and you can always give away surplus to family and friends.

My Favourite Self-seeders

Stipa Tenuissima

One of my favourite grasses, this airy plant moves gently with the slightest breeze. They require free draining soil and full sun, and grow to about 60cm high.

This grass will self-seed freely in the right conditions. Thin out to 45cm apart.

Verbena bonariensis

This tall airy plant has a see-through quality, making it ideal for creating height towards the front of the border, without screening the plants behind it.

It works particularly well with Stipa tenuissima and also requires free-draining soil in full sun.

Escholtzia californica

My father in-law gave me a few seedlings about five years ago they have multiplied ever since into small drifts around the garden, covering any bare patches of soil.

They need to be treated as an annual as they are tender, but there seeds survive the winter in free draining soil. They also come in cream, yellow and

pale pink but I find that only the orange seedlings come up the following year.

Helleborus x orientallis

These are best grown in sem-shade in humus rich soil.